Mandarin Collar Suits: A Guide to Timeless Sophistication

Unlike your favorite hoodies or your everyday jean-and-shirt combo, a suit isn't just an outfit — it's really more of a statement. Whether it's for a formal event or a high-stakes meeting, you want to look sharp and feel confident. But with so many options, it can be overwhelming to choose the right suit. That's why it's important to pay attention to the details, from the fit to the fabric.

At Suit Secret, we know every secret to pull off a timeless and sophisticated look. Let's talk about mandarin collar suits and see if they fit your style and needs.

What is this "mandarin collar"?

Mandarin collar? Don’t worry if the term sounds unfamiliar. This unique style of collar is also known by many other names, like the Chinese collar, Nehru jacket, or grandad collar. You might even hear it called a stand collar or band collar. Essentially, it’s a short, upright collar that doesn’t fold down, giving suits with this design a clean and modern look.

In a Mandarin collar suit, the collar is a short, upright style that doesn’t fold over, giving it a distinctive and elegant look. It starts at the neckline and typically rises about 2 to 5 centimeters. The design is carefully curved to fit the neck comfortably, and the front of the collar can be straight or slightly rounded for an added touch of sophistication. At the center front, the edges either touch or slightly overlap. Mandarin collar suits are all about subtlety.

When to wear one

You can wear the Mandarin suit to any event where wearing a suit is appropriate! It’s like a simpler take on classic suiting (though really, it’s rooted in Eastern tradition, not Western). This means you can rock a mandarin collar suit at formal occasions like weddings, galas, dinners, or ceremonies. The only exception would be a strict black-tie event that requires a tuxedo, but for black-tie optional events, it’s perfectly fine. While a full mandarin collar suit isn’t a typical choice for the office, you can definitely style the jacket with your workwear or go for a mandarin collar shirt to capture the vibe.

How to style

Wearing a mandarin collar suit is a little different from wearing a suit with a lapel. The style is cleaner and more minimal, so flashy accessories aren’t necessary (though a plain pocket square in a solid color works if you prefer). While mandarin collars have been around for centuries, suits with this collar often feel more modern and futuristic, so keep that in mind when putting your outfit together.

Wear it as a three-piece suit

Give your mandarin collar suit a hint of Western style by pairing it with a waistcoat. It’s a modern take on the classic three-piece suit that works great for weddings, cocktail parties, or black-tie optional events. Mandarin collar jackets are usually quite slim, so a single-breasted waistcoat is likely your best option since it will show nicely under the jacket. However, if your jacket is more open, you can try a double-breasted waistcoat instead.

Wear it as a two-piece suit

Fasten the jacket fully to highlight its sleek and simple design. Choosing a light or patterned version can make the suit feel fresh and modern. If you need a darker color due to a dress code, you can brighten it up with a solid-colored pocket square, like a navy suit paired with a red pocket square. 

If you choose to leave the jacket unbuttoned, it gives off a more relaxed vibe. This look might not work for very formal occasions, but it’s something you can try at the office. If your workplace has a fairly relaxed dress code, you could even pair the unbuttoned mandarin collar jacket with a sweater underneath for a modern and stylish twist on the classic suit. This could also work well for a casual date night.

Mix and match

Give your everyday outfits a fresh twist with a mandarin collar jacket while letting it stand out as the key piece it is. You can style it for work or use it to bring a touch of sophistication to a smart-casual look, whether it’s for a family lunch or a date. Pair it with slacks or chinos at work, depending on the dress code. Buttoning up the jacket creates a bold fashion statement, or you can wear it with a crisp white button-up shirt. Match it with chinos or dark-wash jeans if you want a more laid-back look. Add a casual shirt or a simple sweater or t-shirt underneath, and stick to smart shoes like oxfords or loafers.

Tips when styling

• Make sure your suit fits you perfectly.  Mandarin collar suits typically have a slim fit because they were traditionally paired with flowing gowns in China or loose trousers in India, which required a more tailored jacket for balance. The suit should be comfortable to move in, with no awkward gaps, and as with any suit, the sleeves should cover your wrists, and the shoulder seams should align with your shoulders.
• Pay attention to the type of shirt you pick. A mandarin collar shirt works well, but remember, it’s not meant to be worn with a tie. These shirts are specifically made to be worn without one, so adding a tie would break the look. Adding a tie is perfectly fine if you go for a regular fold-down collar shirt instead.
• Choose sleek leather dress shoes or loafers to complete the look. Avoid heavy footwear like boots, as they can overwhelm the clean, minimalist style of the suit.

At Suit Secret, we are passionate about helping you stand out in every setting. Visit Suit Secret and explore our exclusive collection of mandarin collar suits designed to make every occasion unforgettable!