Mandarin Collar Suits Explained: Style, History, and How to Wear Them Right

by aaron sarfati April 14, 2025

Bold lapels like wide peak, oversized notch, and double-breasted styles are making waves in fashion right now. But while these statement designs come and go, the modest, refined, and timeless mandarin collar suit has never gone out of fashion. Known for its clean, rounded neckline and understated elegance, this style continues to be popular across cultures and occasions.

Chances are, you’ve seen someone wearing one without even realizing it. At Suit Secret, we want to make sure you not only recognize the mandarin collar suit, but also understand its history, styling potential, and why it deserves a place in your wardrobe.

What's with the name?

The mandarin collar suit actually goes by several other names, such as the Chinese collar suit, Mayo collar suit, Nehru/Jawahar jacket, grandad collar suit, or Jodhpuri suit. You might also hear it referred to as high collar or stand/band collar suits. Quite a list of names, isn’t it? But no matter what you call it, the style remains consistent — and timeless.

The collars generally rise vertically around 2 to 5 centimeters. To create a graceful fit around the neck, the curve along the mandarin collar is slightly adjusted. The center front closure can feature either a straight or gently rounded edge for a refined royal touch. The collar edges either barely meet at the center front or slightly overlap.

Origin ofMandarin collar suits

Stories behind clothing styles are always fascinating—especially if you're someone who enjoys knowing the history behind what you wear. Mandarin collar suits were originally inspired by the traditional clothing of China and the Far East. Over time, these suits have gained incredible popularity in the West, more than you might expect. Even so, it’s fair to say that China is where the mandarin collar truly began.

The Mandarins, who were Chinese officials, wore round collars as part of their traditional Manchu clothing. The mandarin collar also traces back to the traditional outfits worn by the Manchu ruling class during China’s Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). Back then, this collar was a big deal, symbolizing power and authority. It was mostly worn by high-ranking officials and members of the imperial court.

Fun fact: The word “mandarin” comes from the root Sanskrit word “mantrin,” meaning “counselor” or “minister,” which makes sense given the high status of the people who rocked this unique collar!

How to wear them right

Let's move on to the present day and talk about how to wear a mandarin collar. With its historical roots, this style may seem intimidating at first, but it's actually quite versatile and easy to incorporate into your wardrobe. Kinda like your favorite pair of jeans, but with a touch of elegance.

Slim down in style

Mandarin collar suits usually have a slim fit (makes sense, right?). Back then, people in China wore them under gowns, and in India, they paired them with loose trousers, so the jackets had to be snug to keep things balanced. When you’re picking one, make sure it’s comfortable enough to move in but not so loose that it gaps in weird places. Just like any other suit, the sleeves should go all the way to your wrists, and the shoulder seams should line up with your actual shoulders.

Pay attention to your shirt choice.

You can pair a mandarin collar shirt with your outfit, but skip the tie. These shirts are meant to be worn tie-free, so adding one is a major fashion faux pas. On the other hand, if you go for a fold-down collar shirt, feel free to accessorize it with a tie.

Stick to classy shoes - We don't want any fashion disasters.

As for shoes, stick to classy Stacy Adams shoes. Avoid heavy options like boots, as they can overwhelm the sleek, minimalist look of the suit. Besides, boots aren’t suitable for formal events.

Wear it as a three-piece suit.

Give your mandarin collar suit a Western twist by adding a waistcoat. It’s a modern take on the classic three-piece suit, perfect for weddings or cocktail and semi-formal events. Since mandarin collar jackets are usually slim, a single-breasted waistcoat works best as it will show beneath the jacket. But if your jacket is wide enough, a double-breasted waistcoat can also be a great choice.

Wear it as a two-piece suit.

This is the traditional way to style a mandarin collar suit. Fasten the jacket to highlight the clean design of the suit. Going for a light-colored or checked version can give it a fresh, modern touch. If a darker shade is required or preferred due to dress code rules, add some flair with a bold pocket square (as long as it’s a solid color).

If you leave the jacket unbuttoned, it gives off a more casual vibe. It’s probably not the best choice for formal events, but it’s great for work if the dress code isn’t too strict. You could even pair it with a sweater for a cool, modern look. Honestly, it would also make a great outfit for a date night!

Finally, Get your hands on it without going out!

It is now super easy to get your hands on these trendy and stylish clothing pieces without even leaving your house. Suit Secret is a popular online store that offers a wide range of men's suits at affordable prices.

Here are some of our favorite picks from their online store:

Visit Suit Secret's website today at www.suitsecret.com to see our range of suits for men. Call them at 1-800-561-1708 for assistance.